Craig Cooks Pork Chops 2: Electric (Stove) Boogaloo

If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again. Unless you’ve failed to appear in court. Then flee the country.

Failure is a powerful force. My personal hero, Jedi Master Obi-Wan Kenobi once said, “The Force is what gives a Jedi his power. It’s an energy field created by all living things. It surrounds us and penetrates us; it holds the galaxy together.” I think the force he was talking about is failure.

Another personal hero, Soulja Boy, once declared, “Superman dat ho.” I don’t know what the shit he was talking about.

Failure is everywhere, and looks and feels different to all of us. Some use it as motivation. Some let it destroy them. Others embrace it as a cornerstone of their identity. We call these people Juggalos.

For me, failure looks like pork chops. My first attempt to make Pan-Seared Pork Chops with Maple-Bourbon Glaze was abruptly halted by the shrill laugh of the evil Dr. Smoke Detector, Destroyer of Meat Products and Awakener of Neighborhood Hounds. This week I vowed revenge; served hot and full of pork. Don’t Google that at work.

The Food Lab’s Pan-Seared Pork Chops with Apple Cider Pan Sauce were my chance at redemption. The last time I attempted pork chops several unfortunate incidents occurred:

  • I set off every smoke detector in my apartment.
  • I overcooked the chops until they could have bounced off the floor.
  • I ate a frozen pea. I don’t know why. I was in hysterics.
  • I cried—but only a little.

In order to prevent a second Death Star-type repeat failure, I did what the Imperials never seemed to—developed a decent strategy. Seriously, building an entire space station as a plan to lure one person into a trap? What a massive waste of resources. Tax dollars went towards that space station and they left a giant undefended hole in the side of it? That’s gross incompetence. It’s indicative of party leadership that doesn’t understand fiscal responsibility on behalf of the taxpayers. No wonder they were facing a rebellion.

My foolproof plan:

  1. Never leave the stovetop when the cast iron is on it. It will smoke. It will catch fire. You will cry. You will die.
  2. The stovetop burner never gets set on “High”—which on my stove should read “Scorch with the fires of Satan.”
  3. As Guns N’ Roses once put, “All we need is just a little patience.” As Axl has a habit of going on stage several hours late for concerts, I assume this lyric is directed at his fans.
  4. All attention is on the pork chop. There is only the pork chop.

The first two are simple hard-and-fast rules, easy enough for me to follow. The third and fourth require that I completely change my core identity.

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One of the main ingredients in the sauce is apple cider. It’s July. Cider, pumpkins and corn mazes are a little tough to dig up right now. So, I just got the thickest-looking organic apple juice I could find and discovered that in the juice industry, “organic” is actually shorthand for “somewhat unappealing.”

I chopped up a granny smith apple (the Katherine Heigl of apples), and combined the “somewhat unappealing” apple juice with the apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, cinnamon and cloves. I don’t know what cloves are, but they sound contagious.

Now it’s time for the star of our show.

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The pan was prepped and the stove turned on. I opened the window hoping it wouldn’t be necessary, but preparing for a Batman vs. Superman-level disaster in my kitchen. I turned away to check The Food Lab one last time. I smelled smoke.

Son-of-a-bitch. I turned on the wrong burner. Strong start. I then turned on the correct burner, front-right.

The pork chop goes into the pan. This baby is much bigger than last time, hopefully giving me more leeway to make mistakes. All my focus was on the cast iron pan. There was no apartment. There was no kitchen. There was only me, the pan and my pork chop, that I named Wilbur because Charlotte’s Web is full of lies. There are no happy endings and spiders are not friendly, they are scary.

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Looking good through flip one, but this is one thick slab o’ pig. I could not lose focus. Every flip is an attempt to prove my smoke detector wrong. I discovered something zen, almost meditative, through cooking focus. Flip. Wait. Flip. Wait. Flip. Wait. Temperature check. Repeat as necessary. Remain patient. Don’t turn up the heat to get done quicker. Flip. Wait. Flip Wait. Remove when it hits 125o for medium-rare and looks kinda like this. You have achieved enlightenment.

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My confidence was soaring. It looked incredible, but this was no time to make mistakes. Apples and butter go in the pan for a few minutes while Wilbur takes a well deserved rest. The cider mixture went into the pan shortly after and was cooked down to a syrup. Then Wilbur goes on the plate and into my mouth—how Charlotte’s Web should have ended.

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This might be the most beautiful thing I’ve ever made–and I drew a colored-pencil portrait of Oakland Raiders Quarterback Rich Gannon when I was 11, so the bar is pretty high.

Flavor-wise the crispness of the apple plays very well with the heartiness of the pork, creating a sweet and salty meat-splosion on the plate. The pork is a deep brown on the outside, but not dried out. I’m way into it.

By sticking to the strategy I was able to defeat dastardly Dr. Smoke Detector. There’s a lot that went right here, and I’ll try to take these learnings forward. The four rules are here to stay. But most importantly, I learned something about failure.

It tastes goddamn great.

Recipe: 56/63
Did I do the Dishes? Yes. Like I said, enlightenment achieved.

Enjoy? Follow on Twitter or Facebook to stay up to date on what Craig’s cooking.

 

Cooking Salmon in a Cooler.

Coolers. They’re not just for Busch Light anymore.

We’ve seen a lot of this country together, me and my cooler, The Blue Angel. We’ve been to the beach, barbecues, football games, golf courses, amusement parks, shady house parties in questionable parts of town and of course the Indianapolis Motor Speedway.

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I’m the good-looking one, and The Blue Angel is way down there in the bottom right corner by my side.

Me and The Blue Angel have experienced so many wonderful moments, mostly powered by Busch Light, that I almost feel bad for the person I stole it from back in my foolish college days. Did I steal those memories from them? I’ve considered titling my memoir Stealing Hearts. Stealing Coolers. The Craig Stewart Situation. Maybe I’ll learn to scrapbook, just to make sure I never lose these magnificent memories of me and ol’ Blue.

This cooler has been hit with a 7-iron (the most effective golf club to use as a weapon), thrown down a mountain and vomited in and around. It has never complained. It can’t talk. It’s a goddamn cooler.

Just when I thought I’d put this baby through every test short of the MCAT, this week’s The Food Lab recipe presented a new and unique challenge—using it to cook. Not just as an apparatus to carry beer and meat to the grill, but as the cooking device in and of itself.

It sounds insane, but according to Kenji Lopez-Alt you can cook fish (and steak, burgers and just about anything else) in a trusty old beer cooler. You just need a little water. Kinda like California.

Allow me to explain. Cooking in a beer cooler is possible because of a method called sous-vide. Despite sounding like a 19th century disease, sous-vide means “under vacuum” because in cooking everything needs a fancy-ass French name.  Essentially, you heat water to the temperature you want the food cooked, place a vacuum-sealed bag with the food in the water and leave it there for a while. It cooks the food evenly and eliminates the possibility to overcook. Most importantly for me, it’s virtually impossible to set on fire.

In commercial kitchens they cook sous-vide with expensive machines to regulate temperature. In Craig and Kenji’s kitchen, we do it down and dirty, with a machine usually used for regulating the temperature of 12-ounce brew donkeys. It’s all about heating the water to the appropriate level and temperature transfer. It’s a miniature hot tub inside the cooler—with none of the standard weird hot tub sex stuff.

It takes a lot to leave me speechless. Ask any of my coworkers/neighbors/people seated next to me at baseball games. But putting raw salmon in a cooler with warm water and pulling out fully cooked Olive Oil Poached Salmon (Page 399) with Grapefruit Vinaigrette (Page 400) was goddamn magic—and not some Criss Angel bullshit. I’m talking like the time David Copperfield made the Statue of Liberty disappear. I’m talking when Tiger Woods made that chip on 16. I’m talking parachute-day-in-elementary-school levels of magic.

All great magic tricks (I can’t believe I actually wrote that. Am I saying magic is cool? I mean, it’s cool in a “You do you.” kind of way I guess. It’s definitely not traditional cool. It’s sorta Bon Jovi in the early 2000’s cool: it seemed cool but was kind of awkward and sad when you really dug in. Now he does Direct TV commercials. It’s hard to be cool when you’re the face of AT&T, one of the most hated companies in America. But I’m talking about magic. And not the aural kind you get from Slippery When Wet-era Bon Jovi, the strange and dark kind you get from men wearing cummerbunds at children’s birthday parties) have an explanation.

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In this case the explanation, and most important ingredient, didn’t make it in for picture day. We’re talking good old-fashioned H20. To cook the salmon properly, I needed 120water. My faucet spits it out at about 118o so a few seconds on the stovetop and I was all set. Water? Meet the organ-transplant device I once left by a gas station in Paducah, Kentucky.

Salt, pepper, olive oil and salmon all went into the second most important ingredient–the freezer zip bag. I’m proud that as a society we’ve found a better use for freezer zipper bags than carrying marijuana. Everything went into the cooler, and using the pressure from the water to push all the air out of the bag, I sealed it up tight as Vanna White.

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Then I closed the lid, threw a towel on top and worked on preparing the Grapefruit Vinaigrette. I sliced the grapefruit, combined the mustard, oil, basil and honey and… boom. Cavemen created fire, Newton created Calculus, my parents created this shining example of humanity and I have created vinaigrette. Bow before me.

15 minutes went by. I paced like Oprah waiting for her daily delivery of human flesh.

Another 15 minutes passed. I approached the cooler the same way I check social media—hoping for the best, expecting the worst.

I opened it and made a noise. A weird one.

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Holy shit. I can’t believe this worked.

I feel like MacGyver and Bobby Flay had a threesome with Larry the Cable Guy, then gave birth to this cooking method next to an above ground pool in early September.

Seriously. I cooked salmon inside of a goddamn dirty old cooler and it turned out looking like this.

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And it tasted delicious. None of the hints of Busch Light and Coppertone you’d expect from cooler-cooked salmon.

Delicious isn’t a strong enough word. This is the best salmon I’ve ever eaten, anywhere. It practically melted off my fork. It was fresh, flavorful and the vinaigrette played along without overpowering the fish. I made two servings hoping to have leftovers. I ate them both. I considered driving back to the grocery store for more salmon. I considered driving to the grocery store to buy more coolers. I did neither, preferring to stay true to my bluest friend.

Looks like I have another page to add to my scrapbook.

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Recipe: 12/12
Did I Do The Dishes? THERE AREN’T ANY! IT’S A DAMN COOLER!