Diner-Style Smashed Cheeseburger

The best burger I’ve ever eaten was on Rollins Street in Columbia, Mo. The year was 2010. Like a first kiss, you never forget where you were standing when you ate that first burger that made you say out loud to the world, “This. This is why we are here.” The first kiss was at a science exhibit about the circus. I still can’t explain that one. The best burger is much more simple. On Rollins Street I discovered the glory of god’s perfect condiments, pickles and mustard.

A great piece of my life has been lived under the assumption that these two delights we’re not just bad, but reprehensible enough to be left for dead on the side of the burger plate like refuse along the highway. I spent over 20 years in denial, and when I look back I am ashamed to think that I spent nearly 80% of my life disrespecting these noble condiments.

That day things changed. I changed. I forgot to ask for no pickles or mustard on my cheeseburger and my worldview shifted. In that moment the rubbery, overcooked hockey puck of a burger I had on that corner stopped being lunch and became love.

I love pickles and mustard on a burger. In my opinion a burger exists for the sole purpose of delivering condiments. It’s a plus if the meat is good too, but the most important piece of the entire operation is not the patty, cheese or bun, it’s the pickles and mustard.

Pickles and mustard were what I fell in love with that fateful day.

I guess you can’t rekindle an old love, because this week’s attempt to ignite that old flame with a Diner-Style Smashed Cheeseburger (Page 552) literally ended up in flames. Specifically, the flames of a burning toaster oven.

Our tragic story began at the grocery store with a hunt for beef, buns and pickles. I got beef because turkey burgers aren’t burgers, they’re sandwiches. I got Colonial Buns because their tagline, “Colonial is good bread” really hits you over the head with a hammer of creativity. I got pickles because, as stated earlier, no hamburger is complete without pickles and mustard. My mustard was waiting faithfully at home, lonely without it’s pickle partner.

The Food Lab recommends grinding your own meat for optimum burger pleasure. Due to lack of time, skill and equipment I trusted the butcher, even though his answer to my question, “What should I use for hamburgers?” was a verbose and well thought-out, “Uhhh…Hamburger?”

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While my pan was heating I got started on preparation work. I sliced an onion without crying and brushed my buns with butter.  The fact that the only brush I own is a toothbrush forced me to actually “spatula” my buns with butter rather than brush them. This means I also spatula’d my countertop, cutting board, hands and pants as well.

The pan is beginning to smoke as I create little Easter Island Meat Moai monuments, and I mentally prepare for the rush of raw power I’ll experience as I smash these perfect little meat-beings under the power of my heavy-duty metal spatula. I place my buttered buns delicately on the rack in the toaster oven.

The meat mounds are in the pan. I take out my anger at everyone who has ever wronged me as I smash the two burgers down with the force of the asteroid that took out the dinosaurs.

I may have overdone it. One burger looks like it spent 15 rounds in the ring with Tyson. The other looks like a meat pancake. I realize that love is delicate and in my foolish attempts to recreate it, I’ve crushed it.

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Moral lessons be damned. I’m a man of solutions. What can I make out of my meat pancake? Meat crepes? A meat Frisbee? Put a hot dog inside of it and make pigs in a meat blanket? What’s that smell?

The toaster oven is on fire.

I did not expect buns to be my downfall. The smoke alarm begins to scream. This does not help the situation, and merely adds a shrill soundtrack to the horror I’m witnessing.

I took a picture of the fire, because I’m dedicated to this food blog even at my own personal risk. If the house burns down and the insurance company gets involved and they find my charred remains, they probably wont even have to pay my family with this type of damning evidence.

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I turn the oven off and the fire eventually recedes, content with merely terrifying me today, and not taking my life.

A quick breath later, and now my hamburgers are overcooked, and under-flipped. I make the flip and throw some cheese on to cover up the burn marks of meat pancake and the scars of his poor mangled mess of a burger brother. They’ve seen some shit. They deserved a better end than this.

Cheeseburger construction begins, as I feel obligated to put my lover through a proper burial, covered in lettuce, onions, mustard and pickles.

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Despite all that’s happened between us, like my cheeseburger trying to burn my house down, I needed to try to find that spark between us again. I take a bite out of pure respect, for the burger and my efforts. I tried so hard to find that blissful burger moment again. Maybe with this bite of cheeseburger, I will.

I didn’t. I’m out of goddamn mustard.

Recipe: 14/20

Did I do the dishes? No

Quick and Easy Pan-Seared Steak with Simple Red Wine Pan Sauce

I am a man held hostage by a hunk of cow.

I decided to make something quick and easy. It also needed to be hearty and fulfilling because it’s so damn cold a parade of penguins is moving in next door. So I chose to make something that had the adjectives “quick” and “easy” in the title, yet would be substantial enough to help me survive this frozen wasteland I call home. That dish is Quick and Easy Pan-Seared Steak (Page 311) with a Simple Red Wine Pan Sauce (Page 319).

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Notice the use of is, not was. I’m currently still waiting to get this “quick, easy and simple dish” started. Allow me to explain.

The first step of Quick and Easy Pan-Seared Steak is “Season generously with salt and pepper.” The second step is wait 45 minutes.

45 minutes is not “quick.” It’s a full episode of Maury when you fast forward through commercials.

45 minutes is not “easy.” I once walked out of a Jimmy Johns because there were four people in line ahead of me.

Rather than once again dwell on The Food Lab’s outright lies, I decided to fill the endless void of time and space by being productive. I sliced one shallot and minced another. I googled “Slicing vs. Mincing” and received absolutely no direction. I made an educated guess. I don’t think I did it right.

If Satan has a garden, he grows parsley. I watched several YouTube video tutorials about the proper way to cut parsley and I still have absolutely no idea how it’s done. I feel like my rage alone should be enough to scare the parsley pieces into separating from each other, but when that didn’t work I threw down my knife and got out the scissors. They did nothing. I’m left with a heaping pile of malformed greens. I abandon the Dark Lord’s Decorative Garnish.

I look at the clock. There’s still over a half an hour left until I can start cooking.

I’m making Red Wine Pan Sauce. I have 30 minutes with nothing to do and I’m angry and hungry. I don’t think Red Wine Pan Sauce takes the entire bottle and it’s about time the chef took a taste. I pour myself a glass and wonder if Hemingway did it like this when he wrote his food blog.

My mind has wandered and I’m starting to think about thyme. I only need four sprigs of thyme for this recipe, yet was forced to purchase roughly 400 sprigs because that’s how grocery stores work. Is this an allegory? Do we think we need more thyme/time to make a difference in our recipes/world yet in reality a little goes a long way? What does this say about the human condition? Do we grasp for more thyme/time against the inevitable end? How much thyme/time is too much thyme/time?

Have I had too many glasses of wine?

The clock has struck zero. There is no more thyme/time for philosophical questions. There is only thyme/time for steak.

30 minutes later.

It all happened so fast.

As instructed, I heated the pan to roughly the temperature of the Sun. When I threw the steak into the molten hot pan I was greeted by a satisfying sizzle, and a terrifying fear of losing my eyesight as hot oil jumped out of the pan and into my face.

I kept my head up, and fought through the plumes of smoke to make the ever-important steak flip. It happens flawlessly and I stare in wonder at the crispy brown steak crust I have birthed, and the thyme, butter and shallots I have forgotten about on the prep counter.

I throw everything in the pan hoping it’s not too late, before flipping the steak a few more times. Many cooks believe flipping a steak more than once is the secret to ruining a perfectly good steak. J. Kenji Lopez-Alt believes otherwise, and I am but his faithful disciple, now anointed by searing hot vegetable oil.

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When I was growing up, my friend’s father once ordered a steak by telling the waiter, “Knock the horns off, wipe its ass and walk it on in here.” I’m not quite so bold. I’m shooting for 120oF, more commonly known as Medium-Rare. I bought a thermometer at the grocery store for this, so I guess I’m officially invested now.

The steak is out and needs to rest for five minutes, but my panic can not subside. I thought to myself, “If my steak gets cold before the pan sauce is ready everything is ruined.” In reflection, that was somewhat dramatic. All I’ve had to eat today was a frozen dinner. I could have covered the steak with ketchup and would have eaten it.

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I quickly start throwing everything I can into the pan to try to get it cooked down in time. Shallot? In. Flour? In. Wine? In. Stock? In. Stupid-ass parsley? In. Dijon Mustard? Safety seal still on. I reached for a knife to cut the bottle open and grazed the nuclear-hot pan with my wrist. There is no time for pain. Next time i need less wine, and more preparation.

I defeated the safety seal but felt the overwhelming pressure of my ever-cooling steak and quickly decided to eyeball a tablespoon of mustard into the pan when Hurricane Dijon made land. Chicago doesn’t go through this much mustard during baseball season and it’s in the middle of my sauce. I decided to just heat it up, cook it down and live to fight another day. What can man do but persevere in the face of such overwhelming tragedy?

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Once the sauce was remotely thick I chopped my steak in half, scooped out a spoonful of the stuff and sharpened my teeth. During my panic I forgot to throw the frozen vegetables in the microwave. I don’t care. It’s 9:00. None of this was quick. None of this was easy. None of this was simple. I am a carnivore and it is time to feed.

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This is the best steak I have ever eaten. The burns and boredom were worth every single savory bite. I simply can’t describe how incredible this piece of cow was. I am proud of my creation. Did I invent steak? No. Have I perfected it? Yes.

When I go to sleep tonight I’ll do so with my stomach full, and I’ll dream about this steak. When I wake up tomorrow, I’ll do so with my head on fire, not from the searing hot oil bath, but because I probably had one too many glasses of the main ingredient in Simple Red Wine Pan Sauce.

Recipe: 9/9

Did I do the dishes? Kind of.