Onion Poo Stew and Green Bits

“Fast” is a relative term. We’re all on a planet rotating at 1,040 miles per hour, which is rotating the sun at 67,000 miles per hour, which is rotating the center of the galaxy at 483,000 miles per hour. In that context, it’s fair to say an old man wearing a hat driving a Buick is “fast.” Or say the men’s bathroom line at an REO Speedwagon concert is “fast.” Or even to call a soup-and-salad combo that takes nearly three hours to complete “fast.”

Einstein’s Theory of Relativity proved that, as you get faster, time slows down. He must have made The Food Lab’s “Fast” French Onion Soup (Page 226), because time comes to a screeching halt while you’re waiting for the damn onions to brown. Even when you fill the time trying to make Green Bean Salad with Red Onion and Hazelnut Vinaigrette (Page 792), you still find yourself staring at the little hand on the clock as life passes you by.

I recently took some Buzzfeed quizzes. They told me I was a Carrie, a Ross, a Davos Seaworth, a Blue Power Ranger and a someone named Christina Yang. The “What type of lunch food are you?” quiz told me I was a sandwich, and definitely not a soup-and-salad combo.

Soup and salad seems too simple and light to count as a complete meal. What is there to it? You take hot water, add some leafy green bits and slap on an $11.95 price tag. You’re done, and now getting rich off of people who are lying about watching their figure.

After this experience, I can tell you it takes a lot to make soup and salad—emotionally, financially and ingredient-wise. The investment starts at the grocery store. Step one: take out a small loan. Since you won’t be buying meat, which is bountiful and full of natural flavor, you’ll be purchasing roughly 75 different necessary ingredients—they add up. Next, loudly sing Steve Perry’s “Oh Sherrie” while you aimlessly wander the aisles looking for cooking sherry. People will help you. Finally, look to the sky and declare to the grocery store gods, “Why are hazelnuts so damn expensive?” and buy almonds instead. Then cry in your car.

I prepared all of the individual ingredients, starting with the salad dressing. I’m not really sure why I started with the salad dressing. In hindsight that seems like a bad plan, considering the French onion soup took well over an hour.

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I sliced the red onions, which made me weep Lebron-James-esque tears. After I stopped crying, I was in an emotionally raw place, and chopping nuts just seemed too labor-intensive. So I came up with my own plan. It didn’t work well, and my kitchen was soon covered in almond shrapnel.

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Smashing the almonds with the side of the knife blade was a rousing success, but much less satisfying and certainly not Snapchat-worthy. I combined the nuts and all the liquid ingredients with shallots (my favorite onion) and tarragon (my favorite Pokémon). I added some oils whilst whisking and bam, salad dressing. Cooking is magic, and I am the Goblin King.

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On to the star of the show, (Not-So) Fast French Onion Soup.  I started by slicing onions. To make a good French Onion Soup you need enough onions to ruin a roommate’s Tinder date. I continued slicing onions until the sun exploded, turned into a black hole and sucked me and all of earth into the singularity.

I need a sharper knife or faster hands. I have blisters at the bases of my fingers, and think I feel a case of carpal tunnel coming on. Either way, at the end of Chop-A-Thon 2016 I was left with this mountain of pungent yellow goodness and a pool of tears large enough for baby dolphin to call home.

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I melted some sugar and then my little onion babies got an all-expenses-paid vacation to the bottom of the pot. I stirred and waited. Next, I stirred and waited. Then, I stirred and waited. I added some baking powder and salt. Following that, I stirred and waited. Then, I waited and stirred. Finally, I stirred and waited. “Fast” my ass.

Brown gunk (AKA onion poo) built up at the bottom of the pot. To keep the deep and rich onion-poo flavor, I needed to continually stir the discharge back into the onion mix and add water—until the entire thing turned into a brown, stringy, onion-poo stew.

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Then chicken stock (which was down last week during the global market crisis but is making a nice rebound) and sherry (which tastes like wine brewed in a bathtub in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean) get added to the pot.

Then you wait. Then you boil the green beans for your salad. Then you die. Then you’re reincarnated as a lobster. Then you cool the green beans. Then you get caught by a longshoreman. Then you dry the green beans. Then you get cooked and eaten by a couple who ordered the Surf n’ Turf combo at a Longhorn Steakhouse. Then you add the red onions and dressing to your green beans. Then you’re reincarnated again. Then the soup and salad are almost ready.

The most important ingredient in French Onion Soup is not the soup. It’s the volcanic eruption of molten lava cheese on top. I have selected a fine gruyère (a pretentious and haughty Swiss cheese) to top my date-ruining onion-poo stew. I didn’t know how much cheese to add so I did the right thing. I poured it all on. A trip to the broiler adds the finishing touch—brown cheese bubbles.

 

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Working my way through The Food Lab is about learning, and this week I learned that soup and salad isn’t easy. In fact, it’s way too hard. The soup is wonderful, and with enough onion-y goodness to keep any coworkers from talking to me tomorrow. The salad is pungent and biting, with even more onions—so I shouldn’t have to deal with people over the weekend either.

Over 2 hours of full-on, in-the-kitchen work is just not worth it. I’m proud, and I’ve developed a newfound respect for soup and salad but when put to the question, my heart hasn’t changed—I’m still an entrée man.

Unfortunately, me and my apartment smell like an onion tornado. So no one’s around for me to tell about it.

Recipe: 4/6
Did I do the Dishes? Yeah…I had some time.

Enjoy? Follow Craig Cooks Crap on Twitter or Facebook to stay up to date on what Craig’s cooking.

 

Caprese Salad is a whole bloody affair.

Once I got lost in a grocery store. I remember circling the produce section three times, then wandering the aisles searching high and low as my anxiety began to build, my senses to sharpen. A memory hides within me of a guileless return to the produce section, my soul still hopelessly misplaced under the glow of fluorescent tube lighting. I paced back and forth between the two cheese displays, perplexed and exhausted. A third lap to the produce section was accompanied by only the dream that some loving soul would reach out and save me from my inevitable fate.

Unfortunately, no one wants to help a 26-year-old who’s lost in a grocery store.

The grocery store is an impossible maze, that, when combined with my lack of proper grocery list planning, creates a shopping process more complicated and frustrating than the bipartisan presidential nomination process.

I don’t think I’m an incompetent human being. In fact, when it comes to directions I’m pretty damn competent. Blindfold me and take me anywhere within 30 miles of this exact location without a map and I can find my way home. I can tell you which direction is north at any given moment. I can even explain to you the numbering system that dictates the Dwight D. Eisenhower National System of Interstate and Defense Highways (evens run east-west, odds run north-south, radials have three digits with an even first number, and spurs have three digits with an odd first number—study up and never get lost again.) What I can’t tell you is whether ramen noodles are in the Asian section or soup section.

What was particularly frustrating about that trip to the market was the recipe’s demands for fresh ingredients. The Food Lab insists that in order to make Tomato and Mozzarella Salad (Page 791) with Sharp Balsamic-Soy Vinaigrette (Page 790) that really pops, fresh ingredients are the absolute key. This is a problem when shopping for tomatoes in early March.

I found the tomatoes right away. They’re pretty easy to spot because they look like clown noses; not like eggplants which look like clown penises. I was unable to determine tomato freshness, and since they’re out of season it seemed like a moot point anyway, so I just went with the ones that looked the most like Donald Trump’s face—red and ready to pop.

Next I circled the produce section four times because I couldn’t decide if basil was produce or not. I picked apart the green parsley, romaine, arugula and spinach section looking for basil, because basil is green. When I run the world, grocery stores will be sorted by color, because the current system just isn’t working for me.

I never found any fresh basil, because they don’t carry fresh basil. I’m 0-for-2 on fresh ingredients, the most important factor in this recipe. I ended up finding some shredded basil in a little plastic tub. With how much pre-packaged basil costs per ounce, it reminds me strongly of another shredded green herb that comes wrapped in plastic.

Then it was time for the mozzarella di bufala, which is made from water buffalo milk. I gave up on finding something made from water buffalo milk almost immediately. I opted for mozzarella in a bag. Make it 0-for-3 on freshness.

The grocery store had defeated me. I’d been there 30 minutes and had absolutely nothing that I actually needed to complete the recipe according to the book. So I just decided to escape the labyrinthine nightmare with hopes that I had the rest of the ingredients at home already.  I bought a meat stick in the checkout lane to make myself feel better about giving up. It worked. I wish my dad would have given me a meat stick snack when I quit basketball in seventh grade. All I got was a long conversation about commitment.

The tomatoes need to salt and the onions need to soak for awhile, so I start there. The chopping goes surprisingly well with both the onions and tomatoes. The onions get a nice cold bath to think about what they’ve done, and the tomatoes get covered in enough salt to destroy Carthage for a thousand years.

Since I’ve got time now, I dive in on the vinaigrette. I feel pretty confident. All I have to do is mix everything together. There’s no chopping or cooking. What could possibly go wrong?

 

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I’m not mad at you, like my gesture would reflect, but I’m mad at myself. Apparently using a parmesan grater to grate shallots was a bad idea. After I’ve bled enough to star in a civil war film, I get properly bandaged up. With a little luck I managed to keep the blood out of the vinaigrette, which is good because I don’t feel like making Balsamic-Soy-Zika Vinaigrette.

I also added a tablespoon of salt instead of a teaspoon. That shouldn’t be a problem right?

It is time to start the salad, which is simple. Chop up the mozzarella, add olive oil to the vinaigrette and mix everything together. Place on plate and take pretty picture.

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I feel like I’ve earned this salad. A hellish journey through the underworld of the grocery store, and a bloody affair with a cheese grater that puts a Quentin Tarantino film to shame have led me to this place. A place with a damn salad on my plate. Woo. I don’t even like salad that much.

But damn, do I like this. It’s a little salty. Ok, it’s salty enough to turn me into a piece of human beef jerky. Yet the combination of all of these flavors somehow works, even with March tomatoes, non-water-buffalo cheese and plastic-wrapped basil. It’s a salty, vinegary salad of not-fresh goodness, and it’s actually very simple to make and worth the effort.

Maybe not worth getting lost and chopping your finger off, but definitely worth the effort.

Recipe: 806/1000

Did I Do the Dishes? No

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beer. Part of this complete breakfast.

Author’s Note: Due to no post last week there will be two posts this week. Unless I chop off my fingers. Then there will not be a second post this week.

It’s time I addressed a major issue. One that is standing in the way of me cooking my way through The Food Lab. No, there are no food allergies or intolerances keeping me from making every single recipe in this book. I once ate a ham sandwich with mayonnaise that had been expired for over two years. I’m pretty sure my iron stomach can survive pretty much anything. This issue is a matter of taste and a matter of much controversy.

I don’t like breakfast.

When I tell people I don’t like breakfast they act like I hit their dog with my car. On purpose. Breakfast is a religion. Actually it’s more than a religion. Most people are more passionate about their breakfast beliefs than they are about their spiritual ones. I’ve never been punched by someone when I’ve told them I’m not Catholic. I was hit when I asked a friend, “Why do people like scrambled eggs?”

Sesame Street taught me that breakfast is, “The Most Important Meal of the Day.” It sounds good. But did you know that Sesame Street’s principal sponsor at the time (at least in my home town) was Ralston Purina, a subsidiary of RalCorp who currently own 42 different breakfast cereal brands? Their brand family includes a cereal called Frosted Flakes with a white polar bear mascot. I think his catch phrase is, “Theyyyyyy’re similar.”

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RalCorp is also owned by ConAgra foods, who in turn owns the Egg Beaters brand of processed egg product. Do I need to spell it out? We’ve all been brainwashed into believing that breakfast is important by Big Breakfast and their corporate interests. We’re all just cogs in a capitalist machine powered by whole grains, man.

I will occasionally have breakfast pizza. Which is what I call normal pizza when I eat it for breakfast after it’s been sitting on the counter for 12 hours.

Mostly though, I’m just not hungry in the morning. Plus, I think a club sandwich is a better way to kill a hangover than a pan-fried chicken fetus.

This is the problem. There are 88 pages dedicated to breakfast food in The Food Lab I will eventually have to tackle. Yet, I’m staunchly opposed to most things breakfast food. So I’ve decided to tackle this problem the way any responsible adult would.

Grab a beer and make the best of it.

I’m making Potato Hash with Peppers and Onions (Page 140), which is apparently just everything in the refrigerator thrown in a pan, fried and covered in eggs.

I’ll be using two cast irons for this dish, my trusty old cast-iron pan, Mama Cast, and a 4 Hands Brewing Company Cast Iron Oatmeal Brown. Actually, a few Cast Iron Oatmeal Browns.

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Since I was drinking, I took time-stamped notes as I proceeded, in order to avoid missing anything. Here’s how the whole thing progressed for this “15-minute” recipe.

7:05 – I have begun peeling potatoes.

7:15 – I am still peeling potatoes.

7:16 – I create a new game. Drink every time I drop my potato peeler in the trash can.

7:25 – I am done peeling potatoes. I have already exceeded the 15 minutes of allotted time. I have a drink to drown my sorrows.

7:27 – I begin to chop potatoes.

7:33 – Captain’s Log: The Potatoes have been chopped, and are currently being par cooked. This appears to be a fancy word for microwaved. I propose a toast to my newfound knowledge.

7:34 – I begin to chop peppers.

7:35 – I go blind in my right eye from squirting pepper juice. I have a drink because it hurts.

7:37 – The potatoes go in the pan. I have a drink because they look very lonely in there.

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7:38 – I begin to chop onions. I start to cry. I have a drink because I’m sad.

7:41 – Everything else goes in the pan. I have a drink because I’m happy that all the vegetables are friends now.

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7:43 – I go blind in my right eye again from popping grease. I don’t have a drink because I’m too busy cursing Big Breakfast for my problems.

7:46 – Captain’s Log: The eggs have been added. I have had a drink because I decided “You can’t make an omelet without breaking a few eggs” is a stupid saying. Why the hell would anyone want an omelet? All they do is make you fart.

7:46 ½  – Everything goes in the oven. I have a drink in celebration because my eyes are now protected by a sheet of glass.

7:4? – I check the eggs. They don’t look done. I drink to pass the time.

7:51 – I check the eggs again. There appears to be some kind of film on top of them. I don’t have a drink because I’m slightly disgusted.

7:53 – I check the eggs. They still don’t look like they’re done. I have a drink because I’m frustrated.

7:55 – I pull the entire thing out of the oven. I have a drink because I overcooked the damn eggs.

7:56 – I take this lovely picture. I drink because it’s so damn beautiful.

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8:00 – Almost a full hour after starting I get to eat my hash. I have a drink because a drink with dinner is good for you.

I don’t know if it’s the Cast Irons talking but this is fantastic even with my eggs as overcooked as I am. I propose a toast to the end of toast. With excellent breakfast options like this, why in God’s name would I ever eat toast?

I want to fill a pool with this stuff and throw a Hash Bash. I want to eat so much of it I develop Hash Rash. I want to hide a bunch of it for later in my Hash Stash.

This was way too many Cast Irons.

I drink to my greatness, for I have discovered a way for me to enjoy breakfast food. If I ever want to enjoy it at breakfast time I’ll have to start drinking at 7 a.m., but that seems like a small price to pay for something this damn good.

Recipe: 4.2/5.1

Did I do the Dishes? No